Friday, August 15, 2025

Svalbard 20 - 26 May 2025 - A dream come true

I finally made it to Svalbard! Truly a dream come true to finally visit the place of my boyhood dreams:)

It was probably a week too early and temperatures never got above 2C - but didn't get much below -2 either. But the ground was thawing out and there were plenty of birds, even though the species list was not that big and I didn't see the much hoped for Ivory Gull ismåke. The last one I saw was in Seahouses harbour back in the '80s:)

I only took my point and pray camera, the real one stayed at home. I only regretted this once (see below).

Day one was arriving, picking up a hire car and settling in. A drive up Adventsdalen gave most of the expected species with Teal krikkand, Dunlin myrsnipe, Purple Sandpipers fjæreplytt, Ringed Plover sandlo, King Eider praktærfugl, several Glaucous Gulls polarmåke, Pinkfeet kortnebbgås, Barnacle Geese hvitkinngås, Svalbar Ptarmigan svalbardrype, Snow Buntings snøspurv and Brunniche's Guillemot polarlomvi among the species noted.

Of mammals seen Beluga had to be the highlight - with a pod of them seen from coastal cliffs not far from the airport:)

Male Snow Bunting snøspurv close to the town centre


This bird has been seen on Svalbard every spring since 2018:)
Interesting to see where this bird gets to 

The following morning we awoke to clouds of Little Auk alkekonge visiting their breeding cliffs opposite our hotel. The sound was as impressive as the views. This is one of the sights I came to see:)

We did some drive-bys in Adventdalen before catching a boat trip to Tempelfjord in the afternoon.

The area around Adventdalen again produced a lot of birds with Pintail stjertand, King Eiders praktærfugl, good numbers of geese, Red-throated Diver smålom and so on. A female Gadwall snadderand joined a male Wigeon brunnakke at Hotelneset, just down from the airport. Good numbers of Black Guillemot teist all over.



Views along Adventfjorden

The picture that had to be taken....

Pale Bellied Brents ringgås (hrota) near the harbour

Glaucous Gull polarmåke

Swarms of Little Auks alkekonge over the valley from "downtown" Longyearbyen

The strange looking Svalbard reindeer

Red-throated Diver smålom

Tempelfjord produced 100's of Brunnich's Guillemot polarlomvi, lots of Fulmar havhest (mostly dark phase), Puffins lunde, Little Auks alkekonge and more.


Black Guillemot teist passing over a surfacing Brunnich's Guillemot polarlomvi


Brunnich's Guillemot polarlomvi



Spectacular scenery!







The majority of the Fulmars havhest were dark phase birds

Glaucous Gulls polarmåke sharing a Brunnich's Guillemot polarlomvi (presumably caught at the edge of the ice)




Little Auks alkekonge

Puffins lunde with Brunnich's Guillemot polarlomvi

This Purple Sandpiper fjæreplytt was ringed in 2011 on Svalbard in it's first year of life! The history of sightings shows only re-sightings from Svalbard (and not every year) - would be great to know where it spends the winters!

The following day all I did was what was by now the usual routine, covering the roads along Adventdalen and popping in on Hotellneset. Snow showers for much of the day:)

 
Pale-bellied Brents ringgås

Wonderful to see these birds on Svalbard - a species I grew up with as a winter visitor in NE England and regularly watch passing SW Norway on their way north:)


Glaucous Gull polarmåke eating a male Eider ærfugl.
I don't know if the gull killed the duck or if it was roadkill. Either way, Glaucous Gulls eating birds was a theme for the trip.


Male King Eider praktærfugl

Kittiwakes krykkje
Not too many sunbeds on the beach....


On 23rd May we did another boat trip, this time in glorious weather to Borebukta. Once again plenty of birds, stunning scenery, Ringed Seals both on the ice and in the water AND A POLAR BEAR!


Arctic Skua tyvjo


Black Guillemots teist





Brunnich's Guillemot polarlomvi


Polar Bear isbjørn





Walrus

Watching Polar Bears is thirsty work:)

Back onshore the "usual round" produced plenty of birds too:) Svalbard Ptarmigan svalbardrype was again present outside the hotel along with Snow Buntings snøspurv and the usual geese.

Female Gadwall snadderand

Male Long-tailed Duck havelle

Pintail stjertand

Red-throated Diver smålom

On 24th May another boat trip, this time on a larger catarmaran took us to "pyramiden". Plenty to see on this trip too, with another Polar Bear (this time with a kill), Bearded Seal storkobbe, Ringed Seal, Belugas hvithval, Arctic Skua tyvjo, and much more. Highlight was a 2cy ROSS'S GULL rosenmåke heading north up Isfjord with Kittiwakes krykkje on the way back to Longyearbyen. A Great Skua storjo was a new species for the trip:)

Bearded Seal storkobbe


Beluga hvithval






Polar Bear isbjørn with lunch

Puffins lunde

Pyramiden

Not more f***ing tourists.....:)

Visiting the usual spots onshore gave Red-necked Phalarope svømmesnipe and the usual suspects.

Barnacle Geese hvitkinngås

King Eider praktærfugl pair

Long-tailed Ducks havelle

The rather strange looking Svalbard Reindeer...

Red-necked Phalarope svømmesnipe

Tufted Duck toppand

On the penultimate day I didn't take any photos, it was more of the brilliant same with good numbers of King Eider praktærfugl, Red-necked Phalarope svømmesnipe and plenty more. The only new bird for the trip was a lone Herring Gull gråmåke.

The last day saw me go for some last ditch attempts to find the gull I wanted to see. I failed on this but did pick up a lovely pair of Grey Phalarope polarsvømmesnipe on the sea:) A Lesser Black-backed Gull sildemåke was the last new species for the trip too.


Some leucistic Barnacles hvitkinngås about - always cause the pulse to increase when I see these things migrating north during the spring

Female Eider ærfugl

Grey Phalarope svømmesnipe





One of the last additions to the week's bird list on Svalbard - Grey Phalarope polarsvømmesnipe. Red Phalarope is a better name when it is in breeding plumage - this was the first time I've seen this species in "summer". 
Worth the visit if only for this magical experience. Lying on the stony beach while this pair fed just off the shore was a dream come true!




Although I have much better pictures of King Eider pratærfugl than these it was more about the experience of seeing them on Svalbard in the bitingly cold wind.

Purple Sandpiper fjæreplytt

Red-necked Phalarope svømmesnipe




Stunning Red-throated Divers smålom on a small roadside pool

"Garden" birds on Svalbard are not quite the same as normal places:)

A pair of Snow Buntings snøspurv were not wasting time getting the breeding season going, seeming to ingore the fact the temperature was only just above freezing....





Collecting nesting material despite the temperatures....

Nothing like a nice Svalbard Ptarmigan feather to line your nest with:)






















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